MALLORCA. Backdrop of Mediterranean landscapes
HERITAGE
MALLORCA
The earliest examples of Mallorca's historical heritage are the Pre-Talayotic burial caves and the megalithic tombs. The first of these were excavated from the soft calcareous rocks between 2000 and 1600 BC, coinciding with the time when dolmen tombs were in use - such as that of Son Bauló (Santa Margalida) and that of "S'Aigua Dolça" (Artà). With respect to the burial caves, which are present all over Mallorca, we should highlight two sites: that of "l'Alzinaret de Sant Vicenç" (Pollença) and Son Sunyer (Palma). At the end of the Pre-Talayotic period, the "Navetiforme" (boat-shaped) rooms appeared (they served as housing), such as those at "s'Hospitalet Vell" (Manacor), "Es Closos de Can Gaià"(Felanitx) and the Alemany navetiforme (Calvià).
The Talayotic period, with the prevalent talayots (or watchtowers) that gave the era its name, marks the triumph of cyclopean forms, constructing with huge stones. In terms of individual talayots, we can highlight "sa Cànova" (Artà), "sa talaia Joana" (Ses Salines), and "Son Fred" (Sencelles). Around the year 1000, talayots were built along with the rooms of houses and were incorporated within a wall; these are the so-called Talayotic settlements, such as "Capocorb Vell" (Llucmajor), ses Païsses (Artà), Son Forners (Montuïri), and "s'Hospitalet Vell" (Manacor), in Mallorca. The Son Real necropolis (Santa Margalida) is a singular Late-Talayotic cemetery located next to the sea.
One of Mallorca's key sites from the Punic Ebusitan period is the "na Guardis" Island trading post (ses Salines).
The Roman period contributed the huge urban site of Pollentia which is located next to Alcúdia. The visit includes the urban enclave of Portella, the forum (which has been recently excavated) and the theatre, whose stands are carved out of the bedrock. The Roman city of Palma is located in the subsoil of the city's old centre, skirting the Estudio General Luliano Institution and the Cathedral. Remains of the modified Roman wall can be seen in the Almudaina arch. From the 5th century onwards, early Christian basilicas started to appear, built in the North African style. In Mallorca, there are the "Son Peretó" basilica (Manacor) which contributed the Baleria mosaic and the "Son Fadrinet" basilica (Campos), which was recently excavated.
The Islamic period is not currently represented despite the importance of Madina Mayurqa (the capital), located in current day Palma - building remains have not been conserved. The Almudaina palace was the "zuda" or castle-palace of the Muslim governors, but this underwent extensive renovation in later periods. Some remains have survived in the subsoil, including: parts of walls; the interesting arch of the Muslim shipyard; and the baths within the palace. The Arabic Baths in calle de Can Serra still preserve the main room, with twelve columns and a dome roof. Signs of the Al-Andalus hydraulic system, such as the underground water canals known as qanat, can be found throughout the island.
The Catalan conquest by James I of Aragon directly brought the gothic building style to Mallorca. The Romanesque style reached the island but only marginally, with some of the chapels of the Templo church and several church doors, such as Castellitx (Algaida) and Santa Ana, in the Almudaina. The churches of the "Repoblació" period date back to the 13th century and feature archaic gothic elements, such as the pointed diaphragm arches and the wooden ceiling. Examples from this period include the "Sant Pere d'Escorca", "Sant Miquel de Campanet" and "Santa Anna d'Alcúdia" churches.
The gothic period in Mallorca culminated in the architectural jewel known as La Seu or Mallorca Cathedral. La Seu is essentially a gothic temple, despite the fact that the main door dates from the late Renaissance period (completed in 1601) and the main façade is neo-gothic. The latter was designed by Juan B. Peyronnet and built over the original façade in 1855 as it was in danger of falling down. The "migjorn" or south façade creates the silhouette that perhaps best exemplifies Mallorca, characterised by the vertical rhythm created by the buttresses which are crowned by pinnacles. The "migjorn" (south) door is called the Mirador door. Gothic in style, it dates back to the 14th century. The north door is known as the "l'Almoina" (alms) door. It dates back to the 15th century and features gothic arches.
The interior layout of the cathedral has three naves, which together cover a surface area of 6600 m2. The ceiling features cross-ribbed vaults supported by thin columns that achieve great height and dynamism. The central apse contains the raised Trinity chapel, where the tombs of the Kings of Mallorca, James II and James III can be found. The presbytery with the main altar, the medieval pulpit and the 16th century masonry make up the Royal chapel. The wings are home to sixteen chapels, the majority of which have baroque altarpieces. It contains two apse chapels; the Corpus Christi chapel that features a remarkable baroque altarpiece and the tomb of Ramon de Torrella at the side, and the chapel of San Pedro. The renovation work by Gaudí which began in 1904, saw the removal of the central nave and the recovery of the gothic pulpit. The belfry is attached to the 'l'Almoina' door and within its bell collection, the "n'Eloi" bell is of particular note. The chapterhouses and the Sacristy of the "Vermells" house the Cathedral Museum collection.
The founding parish churches of Mallorca: Santa Eulàlia, Sant Miquel, Sant Jaume and Santa Creu are originally Gothic in style but have undergone subsequent renovation. Santa Eulàlia displays the most genuine Gothic style, with a layout that comprises three naves and an ambulatory, although the façade and belfry are neo-gothic. Sant Jaume is also a gothic church, with the exception of the main door which is Baroque. Sant Miquel maintains the gothic-style door and belfry. Santa Creu is also a gothic church, but dates to very late on in the period and has a baroque side door. The highlight of this building is the Sant Llorenç crypt, built in the early gothic style, perhaps at the end of the 13th century. It has a quadrangular presbytery surrounded by an ambulatory with five sections, and a number of apse chapels. The ceiling features cross-ribbed vaults supported by four octagonal pillars. Sant Nicolau, the fifth parish church of Palma, features a gothic door, whilst the interior is baroque in style.
Another of Palma's gothic buildings is the basilica and the Sant Francesc cloister. Work began on the church in 1281. Its ceiling has cross-ribbed vaults and is divided into eight sections; it also contains side chapels with pointed arches. It houses the tomb of Ramon Llull, which is gothic in style and dates back to around 1480. The gothic cloister is the most significant in the city, with a total of 115 columns with cusped arches that delimit a trapezoidal perimeter. Other gothic churches in Palma include the former Santa Margalida convent, currently a military parish church and the General Hospital church, which holds one of the most highly worshipped popular religious images, Cristo de la Sangre (Christ of the Blood).
La Lonja (or commercial exchange) represents a culmination of the Mallorcan civil gothic style and is a symbol of the economic splendour of 15th century merchants, considering that this housed the Colegio de la Mercadería (Merchant Consulate) and served as the trading hall. It was designed at the hand of Guillem Sagrera. It has a rectangular layout, divided into three aisles, each with four sections, with six fluted columns that display the beautiful ribs of the ceiling, which is divided into twelve sections with cross-ribbed vaults.
Outside, the building has four faces with octagonal towers at the corners and a total of ten minor towers that correspond to the interior sections. The windows display a rich use of tracery. The crowning element of the building is a gallery with ogival windows. The main door, to the west, has a pointed arch and features an image of the Defending Angel of Goods above.
The configuration of the Almudaina palace is essentially that of a gothic palace, currently divided into sections, with distinguishing elements such as the Tinell room and the Santa Ana chapel. Bellver castle, in the outskirts of Palma, was built by order of the King of Mallorca, James II between 1300 and 1311. The master builder was Ponç Descoll. It has a circular layout, which is highly original, with three semicircular towers and the central tower, which is circular and independent. The bailey is impressively large and has a double gallery of rounded arches on the ground floor and pointed arches on the second floor. The highlight of the interior rooms is the chapel dedicated to San Marco.
Other churches in the Parte Foránea of Mallorca (basically outside Palma), such as the Sineu and Algaida parish churches and the old Santanyí church are gothic in style. Fortifications such as the Capdepera Castle and the Alaró, Rey (Pollença) and Santueri (Felanitx) rocky castles are essentially medieval structures with gothic elements. Many examples of rural architecture also display elements of this style, such as the Enagistes Tower in Manacor.
There was a great development of gothic painting and sculptures in Mallorca that resulted in a good collection of works, many of which are religious altarpieces. Part of this artistic production can be found distributed around convents, churches and parish or local museums, whilst the rest is kept in the Museum of Mallorca. In terms of painting, a veritable golden age of gothic painting took place in Mallorca if we consider the pictorial panel of "Santa Maria de Inca" by Joan Daurer, dated 1372 (parish church of Inca) and "Sant Jordi" painted by Pere Niçard in the second half of the 15th century (Diocesan Museum, Palma).
Renaissance art arrived in Mallorca without a great deal of impact, due to the lengthy duration of the gothic period. Nevertheless, from 1529 onwards, and thanks to the contributions by Juan de Salas, we can inventory significant ornamental Renaissance elements, such as the main door of Mallorca Cathedral and several windows and doors of stately homes, especially in Palma and Alcúdia. In Palma, the great façade of the Can Catlar manor is a real highlight. Defensive structures such as Palma's walls (largely demolished), date back to the 16th century. The first coastal watchtowers are an example of the defence plan against raids by corsairs and date back to the late 16th century. Renaissance painting was boosted favourably by the contributions of the Llopis family. At the turn of the 16th century and in the early 17th century, the transition aesthetic between the Renaissance and Baroque became known as Mannerism. Examples of this period include the façade of the Episcopal Palace in Palma.
In naming the list of early baroque buildings, we must include the Palma Town Hall with its baroque façade that features the city's clock 'En Figuera', protected by a projecting, carved wooden panel. Inside the building, we should make note of the assembly hall, with its gallery of portraits of native distinguished men and several symbols of the city, such as Van Dyck's painting of the patron saint of Palma, San Sebastián. One of the earliest examples of a baroque place of worship is the Jesuit Monti-sion sanctuary. The Sant Francesc church façade also follows the baroque style, whose door features wonderful sculptural work. Above it stands the "Immaculada Concepción" or Immaculate Conception.
The Sant Nicolau de Tolentino chapel, at the Socorro church and Mallorca Cathedral's baroque chapterhouse constitute outstanding baroque interiors. Many more churches in Mallorca also feature this style. During the baroque period in Palma, the model of old gothic courtyards was enriched and these became original and attractive arrangements: baroque patios, one of the finest examples of Mallorcan architecture. Can Olesa, Can Vivot, Can Solleric, are real highlights, as are many more.
Classicism did not have an especially important presence in Mallorca but nevertheless we can still see buildings such as the Valldemossa Charterhouse and the Misericordia churches in Palma, as well as the renovation work undertaken by Cardenal Despuig during his ownership of the "Raixa" possessió (Bunyola). This style is also used in interiors, for example, in the Santa Catalina Tomàs tomb (Palma) and in the late and academist forms at the Teatre Principal in Palma. The historicism of the late 19th century brought us the neo-gothic style with important works such as the headquarters of the Mallorcan Regional Government, the façade of the cathedral and a good number of churches, such as the Dolores de Manacor church and the extension of the Sineu parish church.
Modernism reminds us of the role that the bourgeoisie played in the early 20th century and allows us to draw up a modernist route in Palma: with the Can Casasayas twin buildings, the wonderfully ornamented Grand Hotel and the "Can Rey" and "Águila" buildings as well as the modernist façade of what is now the seat of the autonomous region's legislative power, the Balearic Parliament. Sóller is one of the most significant towns in terms of modernism, with examples such as the parish church's façade, the "Banco de Sóller" (bank building) and "Can Prunera".
Following on from modernism, an indigenous style emerged in Mallorca that was specifically called architectural regionalism. It recovered the aesthetic forms of traditional manors, drawing from the neo-baroque and neo-gothic styles and creating examples such as Marivent, the March palace and many others.
Rationalism lived side by side with regionalism in the forties and gave way to more functionalist and populist formulas that still live on today. Avant-garde aesthetics, such as the significant contribution of paintings and sculptures by Joan Miró, unfold at the same time as this style. Finally, in today's times, we cannot go without mentioning the internationally-renowned Miquel Barceló. A highlight of his work is most definitely the ceramic skin he created in the Santíssimo chapel in Mallorca Cathedral.