MENORCA. Where time stands still
HERITAGE
MENORCA
Menorca has a world-class prehistoric heritage, so much so that it has often been called an outdoor archaeological museum. This heritage includes hypogeum-type caves from the pre-Talayotic culture, megalithic sepulchres (Ses Roques Llises) and small settlements of naveta homes (Son Marcer de Baix, Clariana). There are also many archaeological sites dating from this period located in caves and natural shelters (Es Pas, Es Mussol and Es Càrritx caves) that are still in exceptional condition.
One of the most important prehistoric monuments is the burial naveta, a collective ossuary from the Bronze Age (1400-700 BC). Many of these burial navetas are still preserved, but the best-preserved one is the Naveta de Tudons. Burial navetas are a kind of monument found exclusively on Menorca, as are taulas: two large stones, a vertical one supporting a horizontal one, together making a gigantic "T". Taulas occupy the centre of holy grounds which have an apse-shaped layout and quite possibly might have been exposed. Taula grounds are found in Talayotic settlements - some of them quite large - which as a whole contain a wide array of monuments: talayots, walls, homes, hipostyle halls and other communal facilities. The most spectacular settlements are Son Catlar and Torre Vella d'en Loçano (Ciutadella); Sant Agustí Vell (Es Migjorn); Torralba d'en Salord and Torre d'en Galmés (Alaior); and Trepucó and Talatí de Dalt (Maó). The large cave necropolises carved out of artificial caves, such as the ones at Cala Morell (Ciutadella) and Calascoves (Alaior), the latter with almost one hundred caves, also date from the Talayotic period.
The most important settlement from the Roman period is the one in Sanitja, which is currently being excavated. For the time being, the remains of a military encampment from the Republic period and some residential areas have been unearthed. The numerous palaeo-Christian sites date from the late Roman, Vandal and Byzantine periods, most notably the Son Bou basilica (Alaior), the Es Molinet des Cap des Port basilica (Es Mercadal) and the basilicas on Rei and Torelló islands (Maó). The latter two had mosaic floors, and the one in Torelló remains intact even today.
The Islamic period has left the remnants of few monuments. The most important one is the Santa Àgueda castle (Ferreries), a huge fortress located on a hilltop and built as a refuge for the peasant population living around it. It can be reached by a pathway that is partly lined in stone. Some of the three areas of the castle can be visited, although the walls and towers are in poor conditions due to abandonment and the wear of the centuries.
The Gothic style was introduced after the 13th century Christian conquest. The most important Gothic building on Menorca is the cathedral, which was initially the parish church of Santa Maria of Ciutadella. It is a large church with a single nave, a heptagonal apse and vaults with Gothic ribbing. It was built in the 14th century and had several later additions. The main façade, for example, is neoclassical and dates from the 19th century. The other mediaeval Gothic building, but built at a later date (end of the 15th century), is the nave of the hermitage of Mare de Déu de Gràcia (Our Lady of Grace) in Maó. On the other hand, the niche of the Virgin is one of the most interesting Baroque works on Menorca. The Turkish pillaging of Maó and Ciutadella during the 16th century destroyed much of the mediaeval art on the island. For this reason, many churches and convents had to be rebuilt in the late 16th century, including Sant Francesc in Ciutadella, which still features a Gothic nave. In contrast, the Capilla de la Comunión (Communion chapel) in the cathedral (late 16th century) is the first example of Renaissance architecture on Menorca.
The 17th and 18th centuries witnessed a great deal of construction. In Ciutadella the Socors church and convent and the Sant Crist and Roser churches were built, the former in the Renaissance the latter two in the Baroque style. The Ànimes (Souls) chapel in the cathedral is also Baroque. Worth mentioning in Alaior is the Santa Eulàlia parish church, and in Maó and Es Mercadal the Mare de Déu del Toro (Our Lady of Toro) and the Santa Maria parish church also merit a visit, as do the Sant Francesc and Carme convents. Some of these churches feature an eclectic style, in which structural Gothic elements remain (especially in the layout and ceiling) alongside Baroque and classicist elements. Most of the paintings, sculptures and altarpieces in these and other churches on the island were destroyed during the first few months of the Spanish Civil War.
Menorca's military heritage is quite important, as the island served as a strategic enclave for many years. The Sant Roc gateway in Maó's walls dates from the Middle Ages. The Governador and La Font bulwarks were built in the 17th century in Ciutadella's walls and superimposed over the mediaeval walls. The latter is the headquarters of the Museo Municipal (Municipal Museum). On the coast you can see several watchtowers dating from the 17th century, including the one in Artrutx (Ciutadella), as well as other defence towers built in the late 18th century by both the Spanish and the English (Es Castellar de sa Caleta in Ciutadella; Sanitja, Fornells and Sargantanes island, also in Fornells; Tramuntana tower, and Sa Mesquida and En Penjat tower in Maó, among others). Some of these towers can be visited. You can also see the remains of two fortresses, the Sant Antoni castle in Fornells and the Sant Felip castle (Es Castell). The latter was built during the reign of Philip II and was expanded greatly by the British in the 18th century, turning it into one of the most important fortresses in the Mediterranean. The Spanish tore it down in 1782, but even today its remains are impressive, especially the underground galleries. On the other side of the harbour opening is the large Isabel II fortress, popularly known as La Mola and built during the second half of the 19th century. This is one of the most important fortifications in Spain dating from this period, and it is still in outstanding condition.
The civil architecture in the 17th, 18th and early 19th centuries has most notably left us the manor homes in Ciutadella and Maó. These homes show a variety of influences (Mallorcan, Italian, English). In Ciutadella, worth seeing are the houses of noble families like Can Squella, Ca n'Olivar, Can Saura, Cas Baró de Lluriac, Cas Comte de Torresaura, Can Salort (formerly Martorell), Cas Duc and others. These houses have large façades, some of them verging on the theatrical (Cas Comte), with an entryway and noble staircase that also serve to distribute the rooms on the main floor. The Episcopal palace is also noteworthy. In Maó, the houses of the wealthy bourgeoisie - who at times were given noble titles - built during the 18th century are less elaborate, yet they are also quite fascinating, especially inside. This is the case, for example of Ca n'Oliver (with interesting paintings), Casa Soler, Casa Febrer and others. In addition to the patrician homes, other buildings worth mentioning are the Town Halls of Alaior (17th century) and Maó (18th century).
The towns of Sant Lluís and Es Castell are two examples of enlightened urban planning from the 18th century. Sant Lluís was planned by the French during their occupation of Menorca (1756-1763), and they dedicated its church to Sant Lluís (Saint Louis), King of France. As for Es Castell, it was built in 1770 to replace the former neighbourhood lying outside the Sant Felip castle. It was designed starting in the Weapons Square (L'Esplanada), surrounded by barracks.
Menorca also has two old hospital facilities that are extremely interesting, both in the port of Maó: the former British naval hospital on Rei Island, also known as Bloody Island, (18th century), which is currently being restored, and the Llatzeret (late 18th to early 19th century). The Llatzeret is well preserved, and even though only half of what had been designed was ultimately built, it is still one of the most important lazarettos from the Enlightenment in southern Europe.
Despite the importance of the process of industrialisation on Menorca, very few examples of industrial buildings remain. However, worth pointing out is the former building of Eléctrica Mahonesa, the oldest electrical power station on the Balearic Islands, built in Maó in 1892. Maó is also the home to the now-empty building that housed one of the most important companies in the first half of the 20th century, the Codina factory. And in Es Mercadal you can visit the former S'Arangí flour mill (1904).
Twentieth century architecture has left few examples of interest. However, the exceptions are the works by Maó-based architect Francesc Femenias, which combine Art Nouveau with other more classical elements (Can Mir, Casa del Poble, Maó's fish market, Maó's post office and others). In Ciutadella, the façade of the Town Hall, dating from the first quarter of the 20th century, was built in the historicist style.